In today’s interconnected world, fashion and beauty trends can spread globally within moments, almost always with no regard for it’s origin, or cultural significance. We have seen it happen more and more commonly, especially after the uproar of social media, and the crippling hold it has on everyday society. This phenomenon is known as cultural appropriation, and it occurs when elements of a minority culture, are adopted by members of a dominant culture. Now, one of the beauties of a country with so many diverse cultures, is that cultures are bound to infuse. However, with these trends and fashions, they strip the tradition of its original context and meaning, essentially mocking the tradition and the values it holds. From the “clean girl” aesthetic to the glorification of cornrows, when worn by white celebrities, the beauty industry has repeatedly and rightfully so faced criticism for its extremely exclusive and selective embrace of cultural symbols, traditions, and clothing items.
Erasure of Cultural Significance
When various elements of a culture are appropriated, more than not, their original meaning and contexts are often stripped away. Let us take into account the bindi. To provide context, the bindi is a significant cultural and religious symbol in South Asian communities, yet when worn as a fashion accessory by people who may not fully understand the cultural meaning, its spiritual and cultural importance is overlooked. This erasure diminishes the full value and understanding of the cultural symbols, reducing them to just a fashion item, or an aesthetic to accomplish.
Reinforcement of Eurocentrism
Cultural appropriation reinforces a Eurocentric worldview, which is a term that describes a worldview, mindset, or rhetoric that centers around European, or white ways and traditions, as sole and superior in comparison to other cultures. We see this very clearly pointed out when looking at cultural appropriation in media. This perpetuates the narrative that cultural traditions are only allowed when worn and practiced by someone who is of European descent. This once again promotes this narrative that European aesthitecs are more desirable or superior. For example, recently there has been a trend known as the clean-girl aesthetic gaining hype on social media. However, what we’re noticing is things like slick-backs, hoop earrings, and lip gloss, are characteristics that many minority groups, specifically brown and black communities were made fun of. However, as soon as we saw many white people continue with the trend, it was considered clean, even though the same things were considered dirty, ugly, and even “ghetto”(please be aware that this term is derogatory, and shouldn’t be said or used in any context. ).
Colonial Legacy
The fashion industry has been long intertwined with colonialism, even back when the Indigenous people of Canada’s resources and ways of living were stripped so people back in Britain were able to receive high-end furs and other fashion items. We see this same type of exploitation also happening today, as surprising as it may be. The appropriation of African prints and textiles is just one example. The use of “tribal” prints in mainstream fashion collections often overlooks the extremely diverse cultures and histories behind these textiles and printed, reducing them to exotic trends divorced from their cultural contexts. There have even been entire fashion shows around this theme of safari, even from high-end brands.
Power Dynamics
High-profile fashion brands have constantly faced a lot of criticism for not involving the very cultures they are putting on display and excluding them from the creative processes surrounding these ideas. For example, we see this same thing when looking at Isabel Marant in 2015. French fashion designer faced criticism for her Spring-Summer collection, which included designs that closely resembled traditional indigenous patterns from the Mixe community in Santa María Tlahuitoltepec, Oaxaca, Mexico. The designs featured intricate embroidery and patterns that were nearly identical to the traditional Mixe garments known as “huipils”, which hold significant cultural and historical value for those Indigenous communities. The Mixe community expressed outrage, stating that Marant’s designs were an appropriation of their cultural heritage without permission, collaboration, or credit. The community emphasized that the patterns and designs are not just aesthetic choices but are imbued with cultural meanings and traditional knowledge passed down through generations.
I would like to point out that even though fashion has its downs, there are some positive interactions as well!
Cultural Exchange vs. Appropriation
Collaborations between fashion brands and Black and Brown communities can be a positive example of cultural exchange when done respectfully and with mutual consent. For instance, when Nike collaborated with Nigerian designer Amaka Osakwe of Maki Oh to create a collection inspired by Nigerian culture and heritage. It was known for a collection that honoured and celebrated the cultural heritage of Nigeria, while providing a platform for African designers to showcase their talent and culture on a global stage!
Ethical Sourcing and Fair Trade
Ethical sourcing and fair trade practices in the fashion industry ensure that traditional crafts are respected and artisans are fairly compensated. Stella McCartney is renowned for her commitment to sustainability in fashion, and ethical fashion. Her brand and fashion styles work with artisans across the world, paying fair wages and supporting all local economies. This approach not only respects and honour the cultural significance of traditional crafts but also the preservation of future generations by providing economic support to be communities that sustain them.
In our very diverse society and global landscape, the rapid diffusion of fashion and beauty trends often endanger instances of cultural appropriation, where elements of minority cultures are assimilated into the more dominant ones, with little to no regard for origins and significance. This phenomenon is very clearly presented in trends such as the fusion of indigenous patterns in high-fashion collections and the quick popularity of spiritual symbols stripped of their cultural context. Such practices not only diminish the authenticity and meaning of cultural elements. Not only does it perpetuate power imbalances, but it also reinforces Eurocentric standards of beauty. The fashion industry’s historical legacy and reputation of exploitation and exclusion further complicates the issue, as seen in this article and hundreds of others on the internet. However, amidst these challenges, there are various opportunities for positive cultural exchange, such as collaboration between fashion brands and indigenous artisans to promote cultural heritage and empower marginalized communities. By prioritizing respectful engagement and inclusive representation, the fashion industry can celebrate and honour diversity, foster meaningful connections across generations, cultures, and countries, and put their best foot forward on the global stage.
